We are already in May. The seasons are starting to whip past and we are still in Oregon. The phone call we had been waiting for from the cardiologist finally happened. Actually, David decided to be a squeaky wheel and called two days in a row. So he has an appointment and we can get out of town for a bit. We checked out Harvest Hosts and made a reservation for May 8th at Bridgeview Winery off the Redwood Highway.
Little side bar here: If you travel the country in or with an RV and you’ve not looked at Harvest Hosts you really should. It’s not just wineries and breweries, it’s also golf courses, farms, and monument sites that you can stay over night. There are churches also. So do yourself a favor and at least look at them.
The van was pretty much ready. It was clean. The linens were clean. There was propane. The composting toilet was back in place. But it was empty. The day after the doctor call we topped off the water and loaded our clothes. Food – for some reason – never goes in until the morning of take off.
We are not morning people. Not since we retired. Let me rephrase that last statement. I was always a morning person until David retired a month after I did. Now we are NOT morning people. I miss it. And since we are not morning people we rarely leave the driveway before 10:30AM. May 8th was no different. Fortunately, our destination was only 3 hours away.
As I said we rarely leave the driveway before 10:30. That does not necessarily mean that breakfast is always late. It’s usually before 9:00 AM because I am hungry and I start the coffee. This means by the time we hit Roseburg it was really and truly time for lunch. Because we’ve been home for 7 months I’m a little rusty at being “lunch finder”. However, I did not disappoint. I pulled up at Little Brother’s Pub in old town Roseburg. This was a wonderful little pub east of the river. It was quiet – Thursday afternoon – only the cook and presumed owner and the barmaid. Lunch was great! Hamburgers and salad. Took us all the way to Cave Junction and Bridgeview Winery.
What a serene setting. The winery is off the road far enough that you barely hear the occasional passing car. When you pull up the pond is in front of you with two swans gliding along the surface. There is a large outdoor deck. Can’t get much more romantic.
The wines were unexpected. David and I live in the Willamette Valley, known for it’s pinots. We are not big pinot folks and I didn’t expect to find it so far south in Oregon. But the two pinots we had were interesting and I could see myself opening a bottle of the pinot noir some afternoon, before dinner.
Following a very quiet night the morning was beautiful. We discovered that swans sleep later than we do.
After breakfast and coffee it was time to head west to the coast.
David and I have not driven the Redwood Highway since 1995. Due to fires in recent years the highway was not how we remembered it. Many areas on both sides of the road were seriously scarred by fires. So not quite as beautiful as we remembered.
The Redwood Highway took us to Crescent City, CA. We spent some time on the pier across from the lighthouse. At this point our empty stomachs took us to Seaquake Brewing for lunch. We’ve been here before on our way down south, so there were no unpleasant surprises. Very yummy food and great beer. While we were having lunch we took advantage of the wifi to book a campsite on the Oregon Coast. Well that was my goal anyway. David – because this is the way he rolls – decided it wasn’t necessary to book a site ahead since it was still off season.
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Before crossing the California/Oregon state line a stop at All Star Liquors was required. This is always a must stop location if you live in Washington or Oregon and you are returning from California. We stocked up for most of the summer here.
My first choice was Harris Beach. It was full and driving by I could see why. It’s beautiful.
Onward to the next campground: Humbug Mountain.
Humbug Mountain had vacancies, but; you still need to make reservations online. This is why you stop at a brewpub in a town with wifi. The Humbug Mountain campground is in what might be considered a ravine or a canyon between Humbug Mountain and another foothill (mountain). The wifi at was sketchy to say the least. So after finding a campsite that suited us we drove back to the entrance to make our reservation before someone else did.
We spent a quiet, peaceful night. The next morning we left for Bandon OR and Sunset Bay Beach State Park – a favorite spot for us.
Once in Bandon we perused a couple of shops, because that’s what you do in small coastal towns. This is where I usually pick up a pair of earrings. Earrings are a safe souvenir purchase because they are small and non-breakable. Not a lot of room in the van.
As I stated earlier; a brew pub, or tavern, or some sort of eating establishment is a good place to find free wifi for making camping reservations. Wanting to avoid the previous night’s shenanigans with connecting to wifi, I steered us toward Foley’s Irish
Pub. We found a couple of stools at the bar and ordered a Guinness each.
I love sitting at the bar when we travel. It’s an opportunity to talk with local folks or fellow travelers. I struck up a conversation with three local women. I mentioned that David is my cook and had been cooking since he was a kid and from that point it became a conversation about cooking and I was out of the conversation. Folks that know me well know that I do not enjoy cooking or cooking shows. Therefore, I have no recollection of this conversation.
Because we were still off season we were not able to get a site deep in the campground. The park was still undergoing cleanup from some major winter weather events. One campground loop was completely closed off for construction. When we spoke to a park employee we learned the campground had suffered three major floods during the winter. Along with this cleanup the park was having to remove several large evergreens due to disease and end of life for many of the trees. It is definitely sad to see this but absolutely necessary for safety. No one wants a dying 50 to 100 foot evergreen landing in their campsite.
Sunset Bay is a favorite for a few reasons. The first being in the name. The photos I have taken of the sunset are beautiful. This beach can be empty all day and all of a sudden right before sunset the day use parking lot fills up and the beach is full of people just waiting for the sunset. The second reason is the campground itself. It’s large wooded and has dozens of sites including; full hook up rv, tent, group, and yurts. Last but not least is the trail to Shore Acres State Park. The trail s is two miles with non-stop breathtaking, jaw dropping views of the rocky cliffs and the Pacific Ocean. The end of the trail brings visitors to the remains of the remains of the Simpson estate. First you encounter a wide viewing area where – in the correct season – you can see migrating Grey Whales and off to the south on a large rock off shore massive sea lions in large numbers. When we would come here tent camping we could hear the huge beasts barking at night. If you follow the walkway south and slightly east the Gardens are waiting. Louie Simpson, a timber baron, purchased this land and built a mansion (no longer standing) for his wife. Then he brought in plants from all over the world. The plants were planted in the fashion of the elaborate gardens of Britain and Europe. There is something in bloom all year. There is a gorgeous rose garden. There is also a lovely pond with coi fish in the Japanese Garden. Also onsite is The Cottage. The park used to raffle off New Years Eve lodging at The Cottage. I don’t know if they still do. During the Christmas season the Gardens are lit with thousands of lights. We still have not seen this, but I hope to some year.
Of course we had a relaxing trip. This was the break we needed. It is truly a blessing to be so close to so much beauty. This, along with the weather, is why I cannot image living somewhere other than the Pacific Northwest and since we started traveling the country we have seen some incredible natural beauty.
Thank you for visiting my blog. I hope you enjoyed the read and the photos. There will be more coming in June.
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